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Chanel Enchants Les Baux De Provence For Its 2021/22 Cruise Collection - Forbes

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Chanel Enchants Les Baux De Provence For Its 2021/22 Cruise Collection - Forbes

On May 4th at 6pm Paris Time, CHANEL unveiled the film of the 2021/22 Cruise Collection. The show took place in the spectacular Carrière des Lumières in Les Baux-de-Provence, a picturesque provencal village in the South of France. 

Until the First World War, the white golden and luminous stone was used to build the surrounding cities. Today and for 40 years the ancient quarries have known an artistic reconversion. In 1960, Jean Cocteau directed the Testament of Orpheus there, in which  he plays the part of an 18th-century poet. A marvelous black and white movie featuring amazing actors Jean Marais, Maria Casarès with the appearance of Pablo Picasso, Yul Brynner, Charles Aznavour. 

In the last scenes -filmed in the Carrières des Lumières- Cocteau arrived in the "Pallas Athena" in the middle of ruins-the goddess killed him trying to give her his white hibiscus, then two men with black horses’ heads took him inside a tomb surrounded with tears and songs. This surrealistic scene was particularly the one in which Virginie Viard began to think of the CHANEL Cruise 2021/22 collection. 

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This wilderness area alternating incredible southern light and shadow where the blue sky dominates was the setting of a highly graphic black and white show. "Because the simplicity, the precision and the poetry of Cocteau's film made me want to create a very clean collection, with a very distinct two-tone color made up of bright white and deep black" said Virginie Viard. 

Gabrielle Chanel and Jean Cocteau were very close, two free spirits, two soul mates who felt love for lines, words and bestiaries. From Cocteau to Coco, letters, stars, white hibiscuses unified in a beautiful fashion show as a homage to this poetic and intense relationship. A Chanel souvenir and another testimonial. In 2017, the house published a beautiful book following the successful exhibition in Venice “Culture Chanel, The Woman Who Reads” written by Jean-Louis Froment edited by La Martinière. Inside, a note from Jean Cocteau to Coco written on a business card of The St. Regis in New York: “Dearest Coco, I’ve just seen Dali and we spoke tenderly of you. I wish you the best of luck. Which is ridiculous because you are luck. I embrace you and love you with all my heart. Jean”. December 30,1948. 

The Cruise Show was made of contrasts and references. Models first walked in the dark with a constellation of Jean Cocteau’s stars and then appeared in the bright light of the magnificent quarries. Virginie Viard signed a pure ode to femininity again with her punky touch. 

Dutch duo Inez and Vinoodh photographed model Lola Nicon -the face of the collection- in six outfits for the press kit inside legendary Gabrielle Chanel’s  recently restored apartment at 31 rue Cambon in Paris, surrounded by the designer’s bestiary and symbols. Pure incarnation of the French look, Lola Nicon closed the show wearing a mini skirt in shaded pink tweed with her face embroidered on a rock star black tee shirt and pointed silver Mary-Janes as a nod to the swinging sixties and the punk rock movement. 

The Collection included soft punk and rock look, fringed leather skirts, mixed with silk pareo skirt inspired by the stars of Cocteau. The It punk accessories of the season: jeweled double C piercing for the lower lip and quilted mini-bag strapped to the thigh. "Echoing the extreme modernity of Cocteau's film, I wanted something quite rock. Lots of fringes, in leather, beads and sequins, pointed out Virginie Viard.

She also played on  a new feminine interpretation of the tweed black jacket, worn with fluid jodhpurs and patent glove booties, or a white tweed jacket dotted with a multitude of jeweled pins with buttoned peplum that sculpts the waist.

Layers of black and white, a touch of watercolor shades and layers of chains, long necklaces, chokers, lucky charms and brooches. 

Pristine white dresses with puffed sleeves embroidered with floral motifs – reminiscent of  the herbarium of Provence images of the teaser created by the Dutch duo photographer.

A fluid top in ivory crepe georgette is adorned with baroque jewels, inspired by Gabrielle Chanel who designed the costume of Jean Cocteau playing the part of Oedipus Rex. Lions, female sphinxes, deer and other symbols of the house are printed on long negligee-style dress in pink-beige and black crêpe. 

As France is starting to lift restrictions on May 19, the cruise show will probably be the last virtual show as CHANEL plans to invite guests for its Couture presentation in Paris in July. CHANEL has already chosen The Palais Galliera as its next venue. The fashion museum hosted the first retrospective in Paris of the designer “Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto” which was forced to close due to the measures to contain covid-19. Fingers crossed. And an image in our head, a release of white doves by the models for the finale of the 2021/22 CHANEL Cruise Show.



2021-05-07 09:21:49Z
https://www.forbes.com/sites/ceciliapelloux/2021/05/07/chanel-enchants-les-baux-de-provence-for-its-202122-cruise-collection/

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